Tips on fiberglassing?

Well, the long dry season begins today, so I need to keep busy. One project that I've had in mind involves learning how to fiberglass over my phenolic body tubes. I've read through a bunch of websites and have a small clue, but wanted to ask the more experienced builders about what they do.

Things I'm interested in:
- Suppliers of fiberglass cloth. Who do you order from?
- Good cloth to use. What weights and textures do you use?
- Glues. What do you use? I am planning on sticking with my West Systems epoxy, as it appears perfectly suited to this application, but want to hear about other options.
- Rigs. How do you roll it? I'm thinking broom handle mounted between two sawhorses in some way so I can easily turn it.
- Making it look good. 'Nuf said, what are the super secret tips that will give me a great looking rocket.

Thanks,
- Matt

Always use a respirator in a well ventilated area for applying epoxy and also sanding epoxy/FG.
I wear very old clothes and nitrile gloves (100 pack at Lowes).
Lots of alcohol and paper towels great for real-time epoxy cleanup.

Two most recent vendors I have purchased from, both shipped me exactly what was ordered:
www.FiberglassSite.com
www.sollercomposites.com

I use 6oz when going for heavier build ups, for example 1 to 4+ layers on 6in+ body tubes and Machbusters.

Use 1 to 1.5oz for light build ups on smaller or lighter projects. 2 to 4 layers for anything smaller/slower that above = most of my rockets. If in doubt, I go for 2 layers. Very easy to sand through just one layer unless very careful.

I usually do all planned glass layers on an assembly at once to save time and assure maximum bond between layers. However, can add more layers of FG later if cured assembly seems too flexible.

Also use one layer of 1-1.5oz as a "veil" over heavier buildups to smooth surface and greatly reduce sanding afterwards to get a flat surface. Also Frequently necessary to roll on another thin layer of Epoxy after first sanding to fill voids.

I also use West Systems with good results. Like to stick with familiar materials for more predictable results. 206 hardener and 105 resin. Some recommend high heat epoxies, but these are only necessary past Mach 2 (good luck).

I also use dowel/broom handle to hold tubes while glassing. Like to use disposable 4in rollers, much quicker and more even than brushes.

If you are going to cut a body tube to shorter length, glass it at least 3in longer than final size and make final cut after glassing is done, as the ends are more likely to get sloppy when glassing. If body tube is already final length, then just be extra careful with FG on tube ends to avoid bubbles/separation.

On a couple of occasions only spotted pits and voids in FG after primer. In desperation I hand painted with (common household) Latex primer, then sanded, then spray primed and painted with great results.

Thanks Boris, great tutorial. That content is a good candidate to be written up as a How To.

Thanks Bob, good sanding habits are important.

I pulled the info from the thread into a How To article and submitted it.